Welcome to COOP CHAT!  This is our form of a newsletter or “one-sided” blog forum. We want to share what’s happening at Wright Touch Rabbits & Cavies and also any news items, tips, or announcements. This section will be added to and deleted from as need be. All articles will be archived for duplication upon request. No portion of this website may be reproduced or duplicated without written permission exclusively from Wright Touch.

Life-Threatening Virus in the UK

Recently, I got word from my friend and cavy breeder the Southern UK Club Secty Martin Pearse, that there is a life threatening virus sweeping through southern UK and no cavies will be exported from there until after the first of the year or Spring at least. They want to make sure the virus is long under control and gone. It is a fast acting virus that looks like a cold or sniffles and depletes the animal quickly and death follows shortly after symptoms appear. It was apparently started from some animals shown at a convention. No names are being reported, but most all breeders from just that area are quarantining their stock from the show rings or sales until 2008. This is isolated solely to the southern section of the UK. No reports of any illness are coming in from any breeder in the northern regions, but a watchful eye is being kept by all.

“Mommie… It followed me home, can I keep it?”

On Jan. 10^th 1910 a group of 13 people headed up by Charles S. Gibbons, conducted the first gathering of rabbit fanciers in Detroit, Michigan in Mr. Gibbons living room. By the end of that afternoons meeting, The National Pet Stock Association of America had been formed. The first Standard of Perfection appeared in January 1915.

The first official national convention did not actually take place until 1918, but a “test convention show” was held in the Spring of 1917, sponsored by the Great Lakes Rabbit and Pet Stock Association, in Grand Rapids, Michigan. That test show represented 10 states and had an entry of around 600 rabbits and a good number of cavies.

On January 14-19, 1918 the First Annual Convention was held in Kansas City, Missouri. That same year in Chicago, Illinois on December 3-8, another convention was held and recorded as the second Annual Convention. This convention drew 613 entries of rabbits and cavies from 19 states and Canada, with one lone exhibitor, M.W. Meek showing 180 animals himself!

Some interesting timeline facts:

1917 – Name changed to National Breeders and Fanciers Association of America

1919 – Organization splits in October into two nationals, “The Old and The New”

            The New National carried the same name but was incorporated.

1920 – National Breeders and Fanciers Association of America, Inc.

1920 – New National Headquarters moved to Crawfordsville, Indiana

1922 – New National Headquarters moved to Chicago, Illinois.

1923 - The Old National merges with the New National as one governing body.

1925 – January 20^th name changed to American Rabbit and Cavy Breeders Association, Inc.

1942 – National Headquarters moved to Colorado Springs, Colorado

1945 – National Headquarters moved across town still in Colorado Springs, Colorado.

1946 – National Headquarters moved to Pittsburgh, PA

1952 – Name changed to American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc.

1972 – National Headquarters moved to Bloomington, Illinois

1973 – The first issue Jan-Feb of The Domestic Rabbits Magazine is published.

1991 – The last surviving charter member of the National Pet Stock Association of America

            Oscar Sennewald dies after no less than 81 years of continuous membership.

1999 – The ARBA builds the Hall of Fame Library at the National Headquarters.

So OK, here’s my question… since rabbit & cavy clubs (or shows) have now essentially been around and respectfully recognized since 1910 from that first gathering at Mr. Gibbons in Michigan to the official ARBA in 1952, why are we so behind the times in breed type, and varieties in the USA today compared to the UK or even Canada? The exceptional type in both rabbits and cavies from the UK and Canada is outstanding. We are still light years behind them.

Just listen to some of the names in their cavy breed classes: Lunkarya, Merino, Rex, Sheltie, and Curly.

There are a few color varieties that are not only breeding true but are really very attractive like Goldens and Slate Blues (a personal favorite!).

I totally appreciate the efforts taken in developing and preserving a breed or variety. I’ve actually been instrumentally involved directly with a few early varieties myself, so I know the genetic studies & seemingly endless disappointments and culling necessary to get a final animal that is breeding true at last and finally gets accepted by the ARBA. My question is simply why don’t we at least have these other breeds or colors here in the USA in even an initial working standard yet? Growth is good and the Challenge is exciting!

Take a peek at some of these UK cavies that I’m sure would make our ARBA committees cringe. Personally, I think they are very interesting!

         

          

These cavy photos are presented compliments of my new friend Caroline Humphrey in the UK of www.carocacavies.co.uk

Caroline is a breeder of longhairs only and exports almost anywhere that is allowed. Her shipping knowledge is extensive, but understand that importing stock from overseas is EXPENSIVE!

Her cavies are show winners and healthy hearty stock. She is currently in Germany acquiring the newest rare breed of cavy whose breed name has not even been disclosed to me yet! Stay tuned…   

So I guess my whole query here is A) Why does it take so long to get a new breed even recognized here in the US if the ARBA is a learning & teaching organization promoting the betterment & advancement of rabbits & cavies… then B) why can’t they be a little more willing to allow new breeds? Don’t get me wrong, I’m a proud member of the ARBA and think they have done amazing work in the near 88 years in existence now. I just would like to see a little more parallels in what is being bred & shown in the UK to here in the near future. But I can tell ya for sure… if a UK piggie follows me home… I’M KEEPING IT!! :)

GENETICS Schmetics… It’s all aabb AbAb BBBB Ee To ME!

Genetics have always been a great fascination to me as well as a wonderful developmental tool in raising any animal I have been involved with. The basics are fairly simple; it is we who make is complicated. If you can make a basic diagram such as one found in the ARBA Official Guidebook to Raising Better Rabbits & Cavies or the ACBA Standards book, the basics are laid out very well. By using these charts and with some necessary advanced planning on paper, you can pretty well control what is produced from your long awaited matings and select breedings in both rabbits & cavies. Of course old Mother Nature loves to throw you a little surprise curve-ball every now & then that leaves you scratching your head with open-mouth wonder.

As a Netherland Dwarf breeder, I use Bobby Schotts’s book called “Color Genetics of the Netherland Dwarf” as my guidelines & bunny bible. He uses laymans terms and lays it all out in easy to understand charts and reasoning behind each crossing. Once you start using genetics as your breeding ritual, you’ll see amazing results produced from it. Your show entries will be more but your culling will be less. Give the scientific way a chance and soon you’ll feel like a fur-bound Einstein!

CONVENTION BOUND Rabbits & Cavies – Travel Tips

For all you Michigan bound ARBA Convention exhibitors next month (October), I want to say “Good Luck” and have a great time! Wright Touch has had to cancel our entry and trip this year due to some family “happenings”, but we assuredly plan on being at convention next year 2008!

A cute quote in Dwarf Digest from its Spring 2007 issue says, “No Plane… No Gain!” That about says it all.

If you’re not willing to fly with your rabbit or cavy entries, you’ll lose the experience of a lifetime and maybe a prestigious win. The excitement surrounding an ARBA National Convention is unlike any other. Win or lose… you take away memories and knowledge you just can’t obtain elsewhere. If you’re lucky enough to be able to drive to a convention with your entries, then consider yourself really lucky. Most of us seem to find the chosen convention site to always be across the country from where we’re located and driving is too far, also time away from work or home life would be unreasonable in addition to the length of convention itself.

So what does it take to prepare for flying with rabbits or cavies? First Step will depend on the airline carrier itself. There are just a handful of airlines that fly animals so check with your carrier first. Delta & Frontier have always been great ‘critter carriers’ and seem to respect them & truly care for their safety in flight. So when purchasing your tickets, be sure to inquire about the necessary paperwork required for them.

Once you know your flight dates and are ready to make the reservations, make sure they have room for your flight equipment. The airlines limit the number of crates allowed per flight due to space & weight restrictions. Be sure to have them check to make sure all the legs of your flight (plane changes) has crate room on each one scheduled. This nightmare has actually happened before and the animals never got checked on through to the next plane change. You arrive… they didn’t! Also make sure any layover times are adequate. It takes around 45 minutes to an hour for plane changes with crates to successfully make the exchange in between. Plus extreme weather conditions can occasionally effect whether or not your animals can even fly.

If the convention is in a warmer time of the year, you will need to try to fly during the coolest part of the day and plan for any layovers to be less hot during their wait time. In winter months you would want to do just the opposite and try to fly during the warmest part of the daytime hours. Nights are windy & cold at airports.

We all know how temperature changes can immediately affect coat conditions of bunnies and tone for cavies. The less stress that can be caused by extreme temperature fluctuations the better for a successful show table ending.

With most airlines you will need a health certificate for your animals. Remember the health certificate is only good for 10 days so you must have it dated no more than 10 days PRIOR to your return flight home in order for it to be in good standing for your return flight. It is always a good idea to ask your vet to write on the certificate the specific temperatures that your animals can handle. I always have my vet write that bunnies can handle temps from 20-80 degrees Fahrenheit. I know then that with the protection of the carrier and bedding used, this range will most likely be safe. Cavies need a higher low temp range even when protected in a carrier. Probably between 35-80 degrees will be good.

Remember that when flying with animals you will need a personal checklist. The things needed to take seem endless, but you’ll be glad you did when tension grows and the flight day nears. First rule… start packing early! Also the lighter you pack for yourself the better. Supplies for the animals will require more baggage and so the lighter you can pack for yourself to get by with the better.

A unique traveling arrangement for dwarf rabbit & cavy breeders is that of an 8-hole wire carrying cage that is then stacked into a Jumbo dog kennel. All the 8-hole carriers are tied together with either cable ties that can be snipped easily (TAKE EXTRA in your purse or pockets!) apart when necessary, or bungie cords. 3 sets of these 8-hole carriers will fit nicely stacked into the Jumbo size dog kennel. Of course a rolling fold-up cart is essential to move it and transport your crate through the airports. If you are showing fewer animals then would be needed to fit 3 carriers into a Jumbo size dog kennel, you will have to adjust the space required and size necessary. There is always extra space inside around the rear and sides of the Jumbo kennel to pack supplies such as feed and travel crock feeders. Another well thought addition is a critter emergency care kit and your grooming supply needs. REMEMBER to bring your Vitamin C drops. Their extra use is for anti-stress.

You should always pack your supplies suitcase and include a small pare of side cutter pliers and extra cable ties. You will have to check this bag and not carry on as it will never pass through security with the pliers but usually does fine as checked baggage. You can expect inspections by TSA at usual checkpoints but occasionally random searches are conducted so that’s why the extra cable ties will be put to good use when an impromptu inspection causes carriers to be snipped apart for a look-see.

In your carry on bag it is a good idea to bring a notebook binder with the health certificate, having attached a copy on the shipping crate. Any pedigrees or paperwork you will want or need should be in this notebook too. Place a copy of your entry form in it as well as with your checklist left available while packing. It has been known for people to actually forget an entry animal or take the wrong one by accident. Remember… you will be excited, tired and possibly sleepy if it’s a ‘red-eye’ or early morning flight. Don’t take any chances with missing someone because you’re half awake! USE YOUR CHECKLIST!

You will need to be at the airport at least 2 ½ hours prior to flight time. Check in and get your boarding pass. At that time TSA will direct you to where the inspection area is for the crate. Remember to be nice and polite to the inspectors as you don’t want any chance of rejection at this point! In some cases they will even require you to open up the carriers and lift the animal out so they can inspect the hay or bedding material. This is purely a safety measure and inspection requirement for everyone. Accept it and jump through their hoops. It will go quickly and you’ll soon be on board and on your way to convention!

In closing up your crate, use 2 cable zip ties in a few places to secure the interior carriers against turbulence in case of shifting during flight. Make sure you have your health certificate copy secured to the top in a baggie taped down tight. Also make sure to have LIVE ANIMALS stickers on your interior & exterior carriers along with your personal identification tags. Don’t forget to tag & check your travel cart too or you’ll be lugging the load free-hand at the end of your flight. UGH!

Once through security you can watch out the window for your crate to be loaded from the luggage tram. Make sure you see it go on! It is always a good idea to let your flight attendant know you are traveling with show animals and would like to know that they made it safely on the plane. They are usually very attentive and will do everything possible to find out and assure you of them being loaded on board. Some airlines even have removable stickers that are attached to the crate and get handed to you when they have been loaded. The pilot or co-pilot sometimes even makes an announcement over the PA that all live cargo has successfully been loaded. They really try to put your mind at ease. Make sure this process is followed if you have a plane change or layover.

Once you arrive go to the baggage area and get your checked luggage first, Your animal crates will come out last and possibly from a different location to which you will have been directed prior. As soon as you can open the crate to check the interior carrier, do so. Just see that everyone is safe & happy in their compartments. If you place the top of the Jumbo kennel lid under the bottom of it, better air circulation is quickly made possible for the interior carrier, plus it makes it smaller for getting into a rental car or taxi. FYI the later (taxi) is pretty much out of the question in most cases. Proceed directly to the show room if time allows it to be open. Cooping your animals will allow them to settle in and have more room to stretch off the confinement of the flight. Feed & water them and try to relax… You’ve made it to Convention!!

     

Current “Crittermatch.Com” at the Wright Touch

Bunny Biz~

As the first day of Fall officially came this past Sunday (Sept. 23^rd), we are awaiting our next bunny litter this coming weekend. This will be the first breeding for our BEW ND doe “Cali-Vali” to her new suitor, “Sinatra”, also a BEW. First time mama does are always a nervous proposition. We always hope & pray they will be good mothers, but occasionally an unfortunate situation happens. It’s always smart to have a good old reliable “wet nurse doe” available when a “first-timer” kindles if possible. Our Mother Superior is “Indi-Skies” a Vienna doe that loves being a mother! She would try to raise a baby calf if she could. Just a gem of a bunny mama!

Sept. 25^th we bred our ND Siamese Smoke Pearl doe, “Pearl” to the tiniest little guy in the rabbitry who barely makes 1 ½ pounds of bunny boy, “Mitie Mercury”. He wastes no time in getting the ‘job’ done! I guess it goes to prove that small guy theory… he probably thinks he’s a Flemish Giant! Anyway, the end of October will hopefully produce results from this one night stand. Check back for the update then.

Cavy Biz~

Our lovely Texel girl “Roxy” spent a long vacation with her handsome suitor “Tiki” recently. He is owned by Kelly Cummings of KLC’s Guinea pigs. He’s a registered champion gentleman that has many nice babies to his credit. This will be “Roxy’s” first litter. She is due around the end of October. We are so excited!

“Oreo Cookie” our B/C American went on a date this month with “Apache Moon” our handsome American TSW. Lord willin’ and the creek don’t rise… we’ll have babies in December for Christmas! Stay tuned…

A Helpful Early Physical Sign of Pregnancy in Cavies

In breeding cavies, it has pretty well been left to just placing a cavy couple together and hoping for a mating to take place. Sometimes it takes a lot of male “wurring” & “humming” while doing the circle dance until you sometimes get lucky enough to actually witness a breeding. Whether you actually see the mating happen or not, a pretty good way to check for pregnancy is the same method you can use to see if your sow is in a heat cycle ready for breeding.

In its normal non-estrus period, the sow’s vulva area has a sheer membrane covering over it that will appear purple, slick & shiny. It will look closed or sealed off when spread apart by gentle manipulation using your index finger & thumb when the sow is not ripe for breeding or actually in a heat cycle. When this area appears open and moist with the membrane obviously slightly slit like a fissure in the tissue, it will look more pinkish and almost sore & moist looking, thus signaling the period of a heat cycle being present. When bred during this time, it is almost a guarantee to have a pregnancy happen. If you periodically check the vulva after a few weeks, you will see the purple membrane sealed appearance with a totally dry area. This is almost a 100% certainty that the sow is pregnant.

Remember that show animals kept out of the breed pen for longer periods of time sometimes are harder to get bred. If a boar seems disinterested in sows, you can add a little crushed zinc sprinkled on the lettuce. Zinc raises the sperm count and will not hurt the sows. It is odorless and tasteless so is usually consumed without any refusal. Another method to increase fertility is to add a teaspoon of wheat germ oil to the boar’s feed. Wheat germ oil does have a strong taste & smell, so it sometimes will meet with objections and take time for the boar to consume it without hesitation. Always remember to cut down your longhair breeds to allow easier access for the male. It is also wise to remove most boars a week or two prior to pending delivery of the sow.